13 Jul 2007

Day 11: Half day off to Cesky Krumlov

We left Budweis the smelly way past some industrial estates and a motorway, which left a funny taste in my outh for a while.

Today's stage is very short, because we wanted to enjoy the delights of CK, so we ignored the showers and sped up the 3 steep hills (the steepest so far), approaching 800 m as we get into the Sumava/Boehmerwald region.

Fortunately, we were warned about a fallen tree on one 12 percent descent and slowed down in advance.


After that, we briefly got lost in the muddy woods before descending into the spectacular town of Cesky Krumlov.
Although this is undoubtedly the most picturesque town of the entire journey, it has changed a great deal in the 13 years since I was here last (surprise, surprise). It is absolutely teeming with tourists and the rooms are about 3 times the price of elsewhere in the Czech Republic (C. Budejovice was pricey too). Still, it's one of those places the Michelin Guide would give a 3-star rating - not to be missed.

By the time we booked in to our excellent hotel overlooking the Vltava with the cute name of Penzion Teddy (yes, Tina wanted to stay there), we had time for either the castle or the Egon Schiele Museum. We opted for the castle since we had "done" Schiele in Vienna last year.

The castle and its immaculate garden is wonderful. Some of it dates back to the 11th Century, I believe. Oh yes, there were the obligatory bears in the moat too. There are plenty of touristy images to perouse here: http://http//www.ckrumlov.info/docs/en/fotogalerie.xml

After another fine meal (albeit sitting outside in the the drizzle), we had an early night, which was a stupid idea because we were wide awake by 4 o'clock in the morning.

Today's run: only 33km / rest day

Running total: 666km (oh dear, and it's Friday the 13th today!!)

We've been promised better weather today - 24 degrees and a heat wave approaching. It's raining at the moment, but it sounds like a good day's cycling - and a flat route for a day towards the lake around Lipno and Frymburk, before we brave the heights on the border (and the heat?) tomorrow.

No comments: